My 96 Chevy S10 Blazer just failed the Vehicle Emissions Test. The part that failed was the MIL Engine On part. The fault codes are as follows: PO141: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor) PO155: 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor) PO171: System too Lean PO175: System too Rich PO300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected Can anyone translate this to english and more importantly tell me about how much this would cost to get fixed? I want to know before I take it in so I don't get financially raped.
I would say that could probably be a dirty O2 sensor, possibly. Try that before getting someone to rip apart the motor.
drummer-man..... go get your O2 sensor(s) replaced. that is the most common emissions-related part to go bad. and judging from that readout...that will do the trick. background: the oxygen sensor(O2) sensor is placed in the exhaust stream to gauge how rich/lean the engine is running..and to communicate that to the computer so that it can adjust the amount of gas going into the engine. when they start going out...it will cause your engine to have exessive emissions output... I would almost guarantee that replacing the O2 sensor will fix the problem. I cant tell you exactly how much it costs to fix it since I havent actually worked in a garage in 5 years or so.....but IIRC a O2 sensors bookrate is 1.5 hours... if you have 2...it might be 3 hours... go get multiple estimates to ensure they are not overcharging
Pretty much what R2K said. What area of town are you in ID2K??? I can recommend a few good mechanics. Heck, bring it over to my house and Ill do it for free(well, youd have to pay for the parts ........................................... and the Bud Light).
yea...we got ya covered ID2K...if you are on the West side...go see codell...if you are on the East side...come see me...the only difference is that I will tell you how to do it yourself and supervise...cause I hate working on cars now.
sorta did that. Anyway, sometimes, my engine light comes on, and then after a few minutes it dissappears. It happens after I fill it gas. Does it happen to do something with the type of gas or gas people I am using? Gas is gas right? I am a gas racist, and use certain gas stations gas.
My "service engine soon" light is coming on, but only at highway speeds. If I don't accelerate too hard, it may not do it until it's been going 70-75 for 5 or 10 minutes. But it will come on and stay on. The vehicle seems to be running fine and there's nothing funny on the gauges... so I'm wondering if, at high speeds, it's detecting something wrong with the fuel/oxygen ratio. We cleaned the fuel injector... so it's not that. I just don't want to take it back to the shop again if I don't have to. Way too many things have gone wrong with it in the past couple of months; might as well just have my paycheck direct deposited into their account.
You folks that are getting the Check Engine lights can have those problems checked for free at your local Jiffy Lube/Autozone...if your car is a '96 or newer, that is. Both those places (and many others) have this little handheld thing that plugs into your car right under the steering wheel called an OBDII (On Board Diagnostics 2) that will spit out a code that has a corresponding definition in this little book that comes with it. The definition will look like what ID2K was given as his exhaust problems (probably because the inspector he went to got that info off of an OBDII also), but the folks at Autozone and Jiffy Lube should have enough know-how to be able to translate that reading into plain English and maybe even hook you up with what you need to fix it right on the spot. Either way, the OBDII compatible cars (96 and newer) have such an intricate sensor system that 95% of the reasons for the light's presence are: -Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire (usually just tune-up type problems) -O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Replace cheapo O2 sensor) -System Too Lean/Rich. (Same as above) ...and looking back on those, ID2K's Check Engine Light was probably on
Oops...I missed that part the first time. So your check engine light was indeed on. If that's the only reason they failed you, you can go to one of the places I listed above and generally their OBDII equipment has the capability of temporarily turning off the "Check Engine" light. So, when you go back, you're MIL Engine will be off and you'll pass...Unless it picks up the problem again and lights back up before you get back to the inspection station. But that doesn't solve the problem, it's just a free way around it temporarily. Not that a screwed up O2 sensor is much of a problem anyway.
That sounds right because my gas mileage has been in the crapper for the last month or so. About half of what it usually is. And yes, the check engine light is on. It backfires and hesitates when I first excelerate and smells like firecrackers after I turn the engine off. I can see how it didn't pass the emissions test. Codell, I live in The Heights but I may take it to someone on the NW side so I can borrow my sisters car as opposed to renting one for the day. They live near Grant rd and Spring Cypress. Hell, if you're serious I could just bring it to your place. No problem springing for the parts....or the beer. Dallas, I'd take your advice, but the car is running pretty badly so I really do need to get it fixed. I probably need a tune-up now that you mention it.
There is some stuff you can buy at the auto store that you put in your tank that will make you pass the test. I have used it and so has a friend of mine that I recommended it to. It works like a charm. Just make sure you follow the directions.
just a notation to this.... I used to be a inspector when I was a mechanic...and that stuff works for minor engine problems...but if you have a major problem witht he emissions system...it will not do the job. in ID2K's problem, neither resetting the computer or using that stuff will fix him up...the light will come back on as soon as the engine goes into closed loop and the liquid additive will not mask the excessive gas in the system which will be detected in the tailpipe exhaust test. Isabel, I cant make a for sure diagnosis online obviously...but in other cases with a similar sympton, it sounds like a TPS(throttle position sensor) problem. I havent used the option that DT talks about(wouldnt trust the morons at Autozone/JiffyLube anyway).....but if they do check the engine code for free.....allow them to do it..and then go get a second opinion at another location....if they both agree with the code...then you might be close. the problem with a untrained monkey like the kinds that Autozone and JiffyLube hire is that sometimes in order to narrow down exactly what component is causiing the code...you have to run more detailed tests checking voltage levels to determine exactly which component is really bad. Each one of the components depend on readings from the others to properly perform....and replacing parts based on just acode will only cause you to end up replacing more parts than are really needed. Your best bet is to find a good, certified, and honest mechanc that has been trained to properly diagnose computer controlled systems. Not all the guys out there doing it have been trained...they just have a piece of equipment and read the codes and start replacing parts ubtil they find the right one....charging you for each one + labor as they go.
