Until that part that you didn't check while it was torn apart gives out and you say..." I should've done it while I had the engine out and torn down." Look whatever. You do it your way, I'll do it my way. I figure, since I have the tranny undone, the headers off, the heads off, the engine out, the main caps unbolted, the pistons removed, and I'm redoing the main and cam bearings, possibly turning the crankshaft as well, and spending on the gasket set, I may as well rehone and rering. But hey, I'm funny that way.
Thanks for the advice, I definitely have to ask my friend what exactly happened to have a perfectly good engine completely break down. I checked the dip stick first thing after I popped the hood and it was full. I'll definitely have to do more research when I get back from my trip. Thanks for the help everyone.
Double check the oil level, make sure you wipe the stick and check again. Sometimes you can get a bogus reading if the dipstick tube has oil up in it after it was just run. If it does indeed have enough oil, make sure the oil filter is the correct size. If all that is good, you may have simply broken an oil pump, or drive chain, which can't be blamed on the lube shop. Where is the car located?
Casey, what are your qualifications irt car repair? We know codell and FT are both guys who know their car stuff, why shoudl we believe yo over them? just curious, its nice to know if someone has a reason for being so confrontational over something liek this.
ah screw this playing around bs car has 138k correct? that alone will account for a significant amount of cylinder wear, add in the additional wear caused by running an engine with no lubrication, and i find your claim that you can tell cylinder wall wear by eye as total and complete bullcrap. as for the light flickering on when braking, its really quite simple. there was not enough oil put back in by the oil change place, when braking the oil shifts forward and either covers or uncovers the oil sensor(depends on where the oil sensor is in the pan) and when accelerating it does the opposite. if this behavior started right after the oil change, I would wager it is the fault of the oil change place. rebuilding just for the purposes of selling is not smart. get a rebuilt shortblock or a used engine and replace it...then sell it.
I'm not being confrontational. I said no need for a rebuild the engine just fix what is wrong. Someone said no go ahead and rebuild it since you already have it apart. I disagreed doing that for a car you are going to sell since the extra parts and machine work would be hundreds of dollars. Second argument was what was included in the term "rebuild" . One guy said it include the bottom end only. I disagreed. But in the end technically you could take an engine apart put it back together and it would be "rebuilt" even if its using the exact same parts. And you could replace everything but the block and the heads and that would also be considered "rebuilt" so the term "rebuild" is probably fairly loose.
Oil level and oil pressure are different things. Having the oil level light come on usually only means it is 1 quart low on oil, which isn't going to harm an engine. The oil PRESSURE light is what was mentioned as coming on, which would mean that the oil level is much lower than 1 quart low, to allow the oil sump to lose suction. If it wasn't due to extremely low oil level, then an oil pump, chain, gear, faulty oil filter or other obstruction is to blame. Anyway, if the engine is actually trashed, I'd find a used engine to have installed, and sell it, if the intent is to get rid of it. The labor and parts for a rebuild wouldn't be worth it in most cases.
Well if you pull the heads you measure the bore at the top where rings don't run and then you measure mid cyl. where rings do run. I don't really know what you are calling bull crap on. And all this means nothing. Wear on a cylinder does not keep it from running. It makes it burn oil or have poor compression. If it ran without oil or oil pressure it probably spun a bearing. I don't really know what I did to set YOU off.
If all that happened was a spun bearing, then that bearing would have to have seized to completely stall the engine. Maybe it chucked a rod to finish it off. Maybe it would be easier to tell if we saw it in person.
When I spun a bearing in my 351w, the aluminum heads(AFR 185's) were fine. I broke down the engine and found that I had scored the crank and had to find another good used crank and have it turned .10. It didn't cost more than another $100 to have the walls rehoned and pistons reringed. Granted, you can still see the crosshatching in a well maintained and fairly new engine, after 138k miles, your going to have some wear. I don't understand why just wouldn't completely refresh the block? You're right that it won't cause engine failure, but if I'm that far in the engine and the engine is in the shop, why not? Maybe this is why I don't buy used cars. I might run into a rebuilt engine that starts to smoke a month after I buy it because the seller just wanted to get it running to sell it. I still maintain the an engine rebuild is the short block and rebuilt heads are a different order off the menu.
You are right Falcons Talon. An engine rebuild typically involved the short block. And CaseyH. I have 15 years in the auto biz as an ASE Certified tech (former Master tehc) that says lack of oil can not only cause overheating problems, but also damage heads (especially aluminum heads).
Not to mention he can dunk on a nerf basketball goal and be cool about it!!!! (need an ROFL emoticon right here)
Absolutely correct. Not enough oil will allow increased friction which will increase temperature. Eventually, this might cause the engine to seize up, but it might just cause increased wear on the engine components. Overheating is hell on aluminum heads...which is why I bought a two row Afco Aluminum Racing Radiator and installed a Lincoln Mark VIII fan in my '92(Which will be sold by this time tomorrow. Goodbye Red Venom, Hello Blue...ummm....I haven't thought of a name for when I add the Kenne Bell Intercooled Supercharger...)
Possibly, if you let it run for long enough. And yes overheating will lead to warped heads (like I already said by the way) but he never said it over heated.
