OK I know we have many handy persons here in Hangout, I wonder if someone can point out what's the cause for the problem in a little assembly work I did last night. I tried to put together an A/V component rack (shown above) from the parts contained in the box I bought from a local Circuit City store. Here's the instruction manual for illustration: http://www.gusdorf.com/breeze/import/files/Assembly Instructions/6 Models/613xx-R1.PDF To connect parts C/D with parts A/B (as in Step 1), I needed to secure CCC into DDD. The thing is that DDDs in the holes on one side of C/D wouldn't lock tightly CCCs (already screwed into A/B). The other side had no such problem. I pretty much eliminated the possibilities of the defects in DDD by matching them randomly with the holes on C/D. The only suspect left is these holes. My questions are: 1) what is the mechanism that enables the tight locking of CCC into DDD (which are first inserted into the hole on C/D)? 2) what are CCC and DDD called? 3) can repeated tightening and loosening of DDD+CCC easily cause tear and wear (of the thread) on the inner wall of the hole, thus preventing DDD from securely locking CCC? Here's the whole story. Last night was actually my 2nd attempt to assemble this stand. On the previous night I finished the Step 1, only to find there was some defect with part E before I could almost complete Step 2. The guy in the Circuit City told me to uninstall everything and exchange for another box. So there I had to start with a brand new package, and encountered a different problem (BTW the new part E is perfect). I can and will exchange for another package. But I am just curious as what causes the problem, needless to say I was quite frustrated too. If you can offer some insights I'd appreciated it. Falcons Talon? Any one else?
Well, it's a big job. You've got to dismantle the latch hasp from the auxiliary drainage line. What do you got, a Clarkman?
One side of CCC is threaded. Screw it in where it belongs. Line up DDD in the hole so that the end of CCC slides into the hole and into DDD. When you twist DDD the 1/2-1/4 turn, it should secure. I don't know if this is what your asking since I am about to leave for the day. I'll try to reread when I get home.
You bet I tried. EDIT: It's not that DDD wouldn't "bite" (for lack of a better word) CCC. The problem is it wouldn't tighten no matter how you twist DDD, and it only happens to the same set of holes.
Hmmm, just found out the CCC and the DDD together are called "knock down fitting". It turns out if I apply enough torque on DDD with a bigger screw driver, I can tightly lock CCC. However, these DDDs are made not from steel, but from either zinc or aluminum, therefore they are not tough at all. Slight over-twisting would result in either broken or out-of-shape DDD, which in turn causes already secured CCC to loosen. Now in order to get this work, I need to be extra careful on the amount of torque with the screw driver - it could be like trial and error. The problem is, there are no spare DDDs available to play with. I either need to find some more in hardware stores (which I doubt have the exact size) or exchange for a new pack from Circuit City, hoping for better quality parts.
I like what you've done with your Xbox, wnes, if that is, in fact, yours. Here's my Xbox. That's basically mine except the purple light is red on mine instead.
You must first get the Flux capacitor working correctly, then adjust the muffler bearings, and make sure you have enough WD-40 for the ball bearings. DD
