[Automotive] Need help- A/C fan runs on high or not at all.

its your blower motor resistor

common problem and pretty cheap fix (unless you have to jerk the dash out to get to the blower motor)

 

wow, i have the same problem with my 2002 accord. started about a month ago. just been lazy to take it in.

 

an auto parts store will definitely have it ....Autozone, NAPA, etc.

its not like replacing a fuse though ....it can be a little involved

 

man, looking at the prices for a blower motor, i wouldn't necessarily call it a cheap fix. but thanks. now i know what is wrong and the stupid dealership won't try to screw me over into buying parts i don't need.

edit: n/m i was looking at the motor itself which was over $100.

 

well, it depends on if the blower motor resistor is built in to the blower motor itself...or if it is a seperate piece.

on alot of the older models...it was a seperate piece, and not that difficult to replace.

but whichever way it goes...codell is totally correct...everytime I have ever seen that problem(its very common), the solution was that.


btw...dont take it to a dealership....go find a AC shop..they specialize in AC problems and will know best the way to fix it...while having the advantage of not charging out the ass like dealers do.


btw btw....the speed of your blower motor has no effect(or a negligable effect at the most) on your gas mileage...it is just a electrical fan that is not connected to the engine rpms at all(unless of course your electrical system is way overloaded and strains the alternator)

 

I agree with this fully. I posted on automotive care several days ago. The dealership wanted to charge me $25.99 for an engine air filter on my car and then another $24 to put it in. I went and bought an air filter at a local automotive parts store for $11.99 and a friend of mine's dad took out his wrench or whatever that was, unscrewed someting and replaced it in less than 5 minutes. Dealerships suck!

 

yea, i could tell after talking to some folks here at work that they tried to screw me when i "took" it in. i told the service guy what the problem was and that i had a warranty. he proceeded to tell me that he has to call them to make sure it's covered (WTF? it's under a bumper to bumper warranty) and i'd have to pay them $70 for a diagnosis if it's not. on top of that, i wouldn't have my car for a day. a couple of guys at the office today, w/o hesitation, told me it was my motor resistor.

i'm sure if they dealership mechanic had my best interest he could have just told me what was wrong on the spot. man, just pisses me off thinking about it.

 

hey xerobull,

you sure you just don't need the resistor and not the whole motor? it sound like your motor is working fine. if it's just the resistor it'll cost you half as much for the part and you can probably install it in 10 minutes yourself.

 

1.5 hours to take the dash out?

someone is giving you bad info there ...a dash R&I (remove & install) starts out at 5 hours for most vehicles

they probably are just going to have to remove the glove box and/or lower dash trim

$118 for a blower motor resistor? sheesh

 

definitely not accessible from the hood area ...like I said, the 1.5 hours is probably to remove the glove box (they are almost always located behind and/or under the glove box) and some dash trim

$118 seems outrageous for a frickin resistor ..i bouth one for my Sunfire a few months ago and it was like $17

 

my resistor is accessible under the glove box w/o removal. looks like i'm looking around the $50-$60 range for my resistor. gonna see if i can find one at an auto salvage.

 

thios is actually a great option in most cases.

since alot of cars in salvage are there cause of body damage...it isnt hard to find electical components that are still good....and the price is definitely right when compared to 118

I always cringe when I hear the words..."dealer item"

It means it cost 3 times as much as what it would cost aftermarket(if it was available)

It would shorten its total lifespan Im sure...but in the longrun...you would probably get rid of it before it reached the end of that span.

I totally understand the need to have AC...My compressor bearings are going out, and I need to get that fixed before it gets much hotter...I can handle the no-ac thing until the temps get over 94 or so...anything higher than that and I gotta have my AC!