Eh, I don't understand why the majority of people think this way. For instance, I purchased a 2001 vehicle for $25k, ten years later I sold it for $13k. Granted, it had low miles (own two vehicles) and I take very good care of my vehicles. I lost roughly a little over $1k a year owning it. Another example, the vehicle I traded it in for was $21k. I drove it for three years and traded it in for $18k. Most people don't take care of their vehicles and in 12-15 years their $25k vehicle is nearly worthless. If you're buying a new vehicle and trading it in every 2-3 years, yes you'll most likely, but not always lose a bunch of money. If you keep it longer, the depreciation would be similar to owning it for 12 years. OP, you could look into the Subaru XV. I purchased a 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited when it first came out and I will never purchase a Subaru first year model ever again. I had so many problems with it I sold it after a year and a half. Love the car, but it was under powered and all the first year problems was too much.
70 bucks isn't worth the shenanigans. Throw in some upgrades and oil changes and i would be all over it. Your best deal is to find the car you want, then go look for it a few months used.
Ccorn, thanks for all the good info. Is there any site you recommend that teaches you how to negotiate with dealership? Are there any places where I can find out what was the true invoice of a specific vehicle? What would you recommend as a general rule on how much the driveout price with TTYL included should be compared to MSRP price? Thanks man.
This time of the year they will probably show you the invoice, because with incentives you will be paying below it. There are many sites that will give you an estimated invoice cost, just search google. But it's an estimate and you need to know what all options are on the one you are looking for. Also you have to know what options are BS the dealership just puts on the sticker. If you'd like shoot me an email with the vin # and I'll look it up and give you an idea what to bargain for. Then go in about 5 days before the end of the month, get them to give you an offer. Snag a photo of the offer and email it to me. Black out any personal information that might be on the offer. Then ask to leave to think about it. If the offer is good, they will let you keep the written offer (they won't be afraid of another dealership low balling them by more than $100 or so). More than likely the dealership will call you back around the last day or two of the month desperate for a sale and you will get close to the best price. Also a bunch of the fees are complete bs. "Filling" "etch" "PAC" ect. Just there to make another grand or so for the dealership. It's sad that you have to play games when buying a car, but that's the business. It's shady as hell and that's why I only sold cars for a few months before I had to get the heck out of there (I was desperate for a job after I graduated college).
I just wanted to learn and know where to research next time my family and I are in the market for another vehicle. Thanks you so much for all the insight.
Biggest mistake is being tricked into only taking incentives. Make sure the dealership is lowering the price in addition to manufacture incentives. For example: Sticker is $25,000 Invoice (actual value) is $21,000 Dealership has $4,000 in incentives so you think you're getting it at invoice... You just let them make $4,000
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/ it's one of the most comprehensive sites on purchasing cars you'll find.
If it's over 10k, they have to report it to the IRS. Why not pay with a check? Just as good as cash and it won't trigger nothing.
do you mean paying with actual physical dollars? looks like we got a drug dealer on cfet. hook it up!
