Yeah, we sold my wife's little 2-door POS Accord to them for $6K. KBB trade-in value was less than $4K IIRC. They make you an offer and it's good for 7 days, so you can take some time to think about it. We went back to sell it a few days later and the whole process took less than an hour. We left with a check in our hands. If you do it, make sure to get the car detailed inside and out. I think that made a huge difference. It was a 2004 but it looked brand new after it was detailed.
My wifes car is a 2000 mustang. Nice attractive blue color, a good detail and wash and it'd look real nice. I don't want to drive it til it doesn't drive anymore. Wife is stubborn when it comes to making these big purchases, so I'll see. Right now the Rogue/Murano is 2.9% apr with $750 cashback. My credit should be good, just checked it a few days ago and it was up to 750. Wonder what type of other deals/incentives I may see closer to the end of the year.
(1) Go to http://www.edmunds.com and http://autos.msn.com/ and http://www.lotpro.com to get reviews. Determine which cars you're interested in. (2) Go to dealerships to test drive (and ONLY test drive) the cars you're interested in. Do not buy anything. Decide on which vehicle you want, but don't buy yet. (3) Go to http://www.carsdirect.com and register (free). Indicate specifically which car, with which features you want. They will contact all dealers in your area, who will email you with prices for the car you're looking for. You can get them to work against each other, lowering their prices a LOT. The trick is: respond to their emails immediately when they contact you. When they offer you a price, reply with "I'm still interested in buying from you, but another dealer has offered me the same car at a lower price." etc.
Ok this is what the lady emailed me back: 2010 Nissan Rogue SL FWD CVT Automatic MSRP Price: $27,870 Internet Price: $24,929* This Murano has the following added options: 50 State Emissions Leather Package Moonroof Premium Package (bose audio system) Splash Guards Floor Mats So I'm guessing 24,929 is the actual sticker price... the MSRP might be jacked up to make the internet price look better. How much lower do you think I can talk her?
I think she meant to say "This Rogue has the following added options: " instead of "This Murano has the following added options: "
If you are really serious about buying a car, you can not guess a price.. you better know the price! I would do invoice price at least with tax and title. Make sure you negotiate "Out the Door" price so they don't try to screw you over with additional fees. I just bought my Nissan two months ago for the price I wanted.
"Sticker price" refers to the price on the printout that is stuck on the car window, which is usually MSRP. Go to autos.msn.com, look up the Nissan Rogue, add all the options that the dealer showed you, and look at the invoice price. You want to pay either BELOW invoice price (which is preferable), right at invoice or maybe (in worst case scenario) a hundred or two over invoice price. Don't be deceived by an "internet price". There is no such thing as an "internet price". That's like saying a college student is on "double secret probation". It's a load of hooey.
A quick update on what's going on with the car buying experience. Dealer A says the Sticker price is $27,800 but she can give it to me for $25,000. Dealer B gave me a Sticker price of the same, but said he can let it go for $22,900. It brings the out the door price up to $24,365. With $4k for my trade in, then me putting down $2k, and with all the other incentives ($750 cashback, $500 graduate reward, $150 dealer check), i can walk out of there without negotiating at all with Dealer B for a new Rogue for under $19k financed.
Sounds like you're close. Make an appt with Dealer B, test drive the car, then go tit-for-tat on the numbers. Either get them to come down on the selling price or up on the trade in. Set the anchor point lower like $21k, so they can counter offer.
Im just guessing on the $4k. Salesman told me at the Nissan dealership I could prob get $3k-$3.5k for it. And before I take it to them so they can give me an estimate, I'm going to detail it, then take it to Carmax first, go with whomever offers me more for it.
My two cents: On trade-ins. Carmax will definitely give you more for your used car. That said, you do need to factor in sales tax - when trading a car in, the value reduces the price you will pay on the new car, thus reducing the sales tax. granted, sales tax isn't a huge amount, so if the price difference is big enough with Carmax, then it doesn't matter, but something to consider. That said, I think you'd be better off going to Carmax to get a quote. The process is very very simply. Go with a clean car, tell the person at the door you want a quote on your car, and usually within the hour they will look at and drive it and give you a quote good for 7 days. You should, at a minimum, do this. It is quick and easy. On the new car, all the tips given so far are great. I guess I would just say, do you really need a new car. I agree that you need a different, newer car, but a brand new car? It is never a wise investment decision. Getting a slightly used car (meaning 1-2 years old, less than 30k miles) makes more sense. For example, heres a 2008 Rogue SL that seems to have what you're looking for, 22k miles, listed for just under $18k...and I'm sure you could get for less, in Austin. Just a thought. Finally, have you considered the Hyundai Santa Fe. My sister got one and loves it. Same "type" of car.
JayZ, I thought about the whole used car thing, but all I could find was $2-3k cheaper then a brand new one, and even then those have a good 20-30k miles on it. I mean the one we're trading in only has like 73k and we're talking about buying a used car with half the mileage for a little under the price of a new one. The resell value seems too high to buy one used, comparing the prices for each. Also, with the new car I'll get a 2.9apr. With a used car the lowest I could get would be 6.5-7.0%.
wanted to chime in my 2 cents here i am in the market of a new car also, Toyota Corolla, and wasn't really going to get a car till Feb, but with the low apr rate, it made it enticing. I looked into it last Saturday just to see what the MSRP would start at and see what I can get. After doing my research on Edmunds.com as suggested here, I thought a LE car I wanted that's MSRP for $17,600, and the TMV was $16,507. I thought $16,000 after TTL and with my Toyota Loyalty $500 discount would be feasible but with the lowest down payment I can get along with 0% interest for 60 months. Went to Champions Toyota over on Almeda Genoa, at first they offered with 14.9% interest! I know my credit score is still in recovery mode since paying it off 2 years ago, but thats pretty ridiculous, after about 4 other offers, from 12% to 3%, I finally got my 0%. The mistake I made was that I was willing to pay $2000 down before we even talked numbers, so he got it down to $239/month for 60 months 0% apr with $2000 down payment. In the end, the price would be $16,340, which was good, but I didn't even have a check for $2000 to give. The offer was on the table till this morning, and I went to pass on it to see what I can get with $0 down. Went to Mike Calvert this afternoon, told him, i was looking to pay $250/month 60 months/0% interest. They said they can get it down to that monthly payment with a down payment around $1500, I counter offered $1000 and said it was doable. Went to their financial department, best they gave me was $281/month, which in the end would be $17,860 total, I refused cause thats $1,860 more than what I offered. He was giving me the crap that I'd be giving up a price for just $1/day, I told him I know my math, that about $1500 off the top of my head in the final cost and he couldn't match. I'm sticking to my guns, I know $16,000 drive out is possible, no man in a suit giving me BS crap can get me to pay out more.
I told you : DO NOT USE "sticker price" AS A BASIS OF NEGOTIATION. That's just the MSRP price, which is greatly inflated. You should know exactly what the invoice price is for the vehicle you want and your negotiations should be based only off of INVOICE PRICE... not "sticker price".... not "msrp"... not "internet price" (whatever that is).
If you have an American Express credit card, AMEX offers special car pricing. For my area (Springfield, MO), it looks like they offer about $700 off of MSRP (which is the same as the advertised invoice) for a base Corolla. The Rogue is 1,800 off of invoice ($19,342). Ofcourse those are base numbers... You can look at the numbers without having a card : http://amexnetwork.zag.com/new-used-car.html I believe Costco has something similar for members.
Did I hit an ingrown hair or something? I haven't negotiated at ALL yet. I'm just saying. That is the sticker price, and then I'm giving a price they're offering me. BTW, that Amex deal is awesome. Beats the best deal I've gotten so far out of my best deal from a dealer lol Cuts my price down to $22,311
So I left a boy..... I come back to you guys as a MAN! lol I haggled, bounced dealers off of each other, and it's been CRAZY. This is what's crazy about it.... Ok Dealer A sends me an offer through email this morning, $200 above invoice price. Here is what he sent me... Factory invoice price: $20,433 + $140 - $750 = $ 19,823 plus TTF So I decided to email dealer B this email, but I changed the #'s a bit because I didn't the "-$750" part which is a cashback reward. I thought he hadn't deducted that yet. So in my email, I deducted $750 from everything.... "Hans, Here's the bottom line and an end to this bidding war. I want to buy the car from you. You've been much more helpful then Nissan on Newport News from the start. So here's my offer for you. Nissan of Newport News was going to match the same offer American Express was and throw in the floor mats/splash guards for free, since he couldn't find a car without them. The deal was: (this is the email i got from Dudley... ----It appears the AMEX quote is $610 below invoice before the rebate of $750 ($1360 below invoice). We will match that formula for the vehicle that I can secure: $20,192 - $610 - $750 = $ 18,332 plus Taxes, Titles, and Fees " ----- Anyways, after sending this email to dealer B I was like OMG there is no way hes going to find this as a serious offer. He'd laugh at me. So he leaves me a voicemail at 5pm, I check it, and he seems real nervous/panicky... Tells me his answer, and also emails me... Paul, Pomoco is willing to do the deal for you in an effort to earn your business. I have this particular Rogue on the lot, so there is no need to bring one in from another store. I will need the deposit as soon as possible before I can hold it for you.. It is the only one I have. -Hans LOL Edmunds says $200 OVER invoice is a GOOD deal... $200 UNDER invoice is a GREAT deal.... They don't even mention anyone getting $1,360 UNDER invoice lol. So thats $18,332.00 For a new Nissan Rogue. My wife will also qualify for a graduate reward of $500 towards this purchase as well. So for mid $17k I'm getting this. Thanks guys for all your help! Will post pics next week when I get it.
