Any resident mechanics on the BBS? I have an issue with my car and I need some advice. Here are the symptoms. The problem happens every 2-3 months. I go to start my car, it turns over, revs up...then the RPM starts dropping and the car basically dies. If I keep my foot on the accelerator, the RPM does not drop and the car does not die. The car is actually partially drivable in this state. As long as you are moving or touching the accelerator it stays on...but if you come to a stop light and stop completely and don't keep a little gas on the RPM drops right back down, it idles very slowly and dies a couple of seconds later. I've solved the problem in the past by filling up on gas (I had a quarter of a tank when it happened today) and driving around. Usually if I get up some speed and give it some good acceleration, the problem seems to work itself out. The car will then run fine for a while before one morning it randomly does it again. Any ideas? Should I just live with it? Something I might be able to fix myself? Spend money on a mechanic to take a look the next time it happens?
I'm not a car guy but it sounds like you have an idle controller that is bad. I think it is a cheap fix.
My car has a horribly erratic idle, with nearly the same symptoms. It drives me nuts. The guys at Houston Performance said I needed a new mass air meter along with a good dyno tune. This sounds about right, but I've yet to get it done. Resetting my idle has helped in the past, but I really need the tune up.
i had the same problem with my accord. took it in the dealership and it supposedly costed $250. i had a warranty so it didn't matter. they changed something, i don't remember.
Get your valves adjusted. If that doesn't fix the problem you need to adjust your idle valve (thingy) on your throttle body. I had this problem once when a reputable performance shop over tightened my valves during a simple valve adjustment. I do my own valve adjustments now...screw paying $60-$80 for a half an hour job. You can only perform a valve adjustment when the motor is COLD. If they do it when your motor is HOT...your car will display the symptoms you just mentioned.
What kind of car do you drive? I had this happen to my Ford Expedition. The solution for my problem was to change the vacuum hose. There was a hole that was caused through hot coolant and it would cause my car to idle. I heard a loud hissing sound everytime I started the engine so I went to go look for it. Hopefully this is somewhat helpful for you.
it sounds like it might be your IAC sensor. (idle air control?) its basically a computer chip that regulates the air flow thru the engine. i had the exact same symptoms you had w/ my car - it is not a problem you want to let go for too long. i ended up draining my battery, beyond even being able to be jumped. had to get a new one. and everything you described happened w/ my car - it eventually got really bad and sometimes wouldnt even start. you dont want to wait till your car starts stalling out while you are driving down the highway! i think it cost me about $175 for a new sensor. after i got it replaced the problem was totally solved. if you drive a ford i would put money on that being the problem - i drive a taurus and i know a few other ford drivers who had the exact same problem.
Maybe try running the A/C compressor, it tends to boost the RPMs or pop it to neutral and give some gas. I have the same problem with my 05 Neon, however I bought it new and it only has 4,000 miles, piece of ****. They already replaced the idle air controller and reprogrammed the idle twice and it didn't work. When I stop without the AC on, the RPMs drop under 500, and the engine sounds like a f'n helicopter or automatic weapon, and its starts shaking. I read somewhere that you could maybe drill a hole in the throttle body to help.
but does your car stall out, or just continue to idle really low? the way the threadstarter described it, his car drops in rpm's and than stalls out.
What MAF are you running Lynus. I have a C&L, and sometimes have problems, but have heard that ProM is the way to go. Have you adjusted your Idle sensor on your throttle body yet? Take a voltometer and hook the positive to the green wire. Just shove a needle through the green wire and hook to (+) to it. Ground the black of course. You should read .99 at idle. If you are off, take the sensor off and grind a little around the screw holes to give some play for adjustment.
