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Help - Need New Car Speakers

Discussion in 'BBS Hangout' started by Icehouse, Mar 16, 2011.

  1. Icehouse

    Icehouse Member

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    As some know, I'm an idiot when it comes to electronics. I need to replace both pairs of speakers on my 2000 Accord, and I know I want components. This is what I currently have:

    Polk EX3560 (6-1/2)
    http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/recent/ex3560/

    Infinity Kappa 692.5I (6-9)
    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lMkC7xTiqJj/p_1086925I/Infinity-Kappa-692-5i.html

    Amp
    MTX Thunder 4244
    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YtnANLrS1jG/p_236T4244/MTX-Thunder4244.html?tab=other_items

    I'm looking at these:

    Polk Audio DB6501 (6-1/2)
    http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB...ef=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1300329540&sr=1-1

    I'm clueless on the 6-9's. This is what Amazon has:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref...293700011&bbn=10980881&ie=UTF8&qid=1300329871

    Any help is greatly appreciated!
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. vinsensual

    vinsensual Member

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    The biggest upgrade you can do to any car system is add a subwoofer. You don't need 6x9s in the rears since they'll muddle up any sort of soundstage created by the front speakers. Since speaker evaluation is so subjective, your time would best be used finding some place where you can give them a test listen. Mobile audio stores are all over town, and if you know how to say no to badgering and haggling, you should be safe.

    If you've been to any speaker related forum, you'll know that these guys love to try out whatever's new or whatever they don't have. A very common and beneficial side effect of that is that they're usually trying to sell their older (which is sometimes new or unused) gear.
     
  3. lpbman

    lpbman Member

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    http://www.amazon.com/MB-RVF-269-Co...=sr_1_22?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1300330673&sr=1-22


    That's what I'd go with if I had to have 6x9 components from the ones listed. Most on that list are coaxial.

    Also, if your deck is doing all your equalizing, you can save some cash on your amp and pick up this beauty. I have one, and it sounds amazing.
    http://www.amazon.com/Sure-4x100W-T...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1300330862&sr=1-1
    I'm giving mine 22.5v, but I'm also pushing two 6.5's and a 12" sub with it. It will give you ~50wpc @ 13.8v.
     
  4. Salvy

    Salvy Member

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    Well, first of all.... What do you want achieve when it comes to your sound... What is your sound system lacking now... Is it bass, is it highs and mids or is it all together just weak.... Another question is what music do you listen to... I or someone here can give you hundreds of links but none will do you any good untill you have clear purpose on what you are looking forward to achieve... Some people add a subwoofer because they want more bass and others hate the subwoofer but rather have high end 6X9's that will reproduce a tight bass without the hassle of an amp and bulky box.... Budget also plays a role in what you will get and what you wont get... Give me some feedback and I belive I can hook you up, I have a friend who is vendor and can give you some awesome deals.. I myself can do the install since thats what I do :D... Let me know, jus wanna help ya out...
     
  5. Icehouse

    Icehouse Member

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    First off thanks everyone.

    vinsensual:
    3 of the 4 speakers are blown, so I have to get them replaced. I don't have a sub though. Would you suggest getting one even if I have to get new speakers anyway?

    lpbman:
    Thanks for the suggestion. Did the 6-1/2s that I posted look ok?

    I'm not a sound expert at all. My old speakers blew out and I need new ones. I was fine with what I had before (see the first post for that setup) and I had that setup since 2002. I was just fine with that (untrained ear). I listen to all kinds of music (literally...very wide variety) and I was fine with the bass that I was getting from my amp, which I still have. I would prefer to stay in the $200-$300 range, but I know I want components like I had before.
     
  6. lpbman

    lpbman Member

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  7. vinsensual

    vinsensual Member

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    Unless you have whiny carpoolers you take every day, I would forego replacing the coax speakers in the back (the 6x9s, coax = tweeter over woofer). It's unnecessary and even detrimental to improving the sound up front. Even if they're blown, just disconnect them from your head unit, or pop the panels in the back and clip the wires.

    4x yes on getting the subwoofer. It is far and away the easiest and biggest improvement you can do. As easy as finding those infinity basslink systems and doing the necessary wiring, which isn't dificult either (you can even re-use the signal from the rear speakers). Don't associate those obnoxious rattle installs or parking lot thumpers with what a subwoofer provides; it's a necessary step, and in most casual applications, the only one needed.
     
  8. paymon

    paymon Member

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  9. Salvy

    Salvy Member

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    Ok, sorry for taking soo long to answer.... After reading upon your response a I believe this is the best bang for the buck you can get and I can pretty much assure you that the new set up will blow away the old one...
    Check It Out

    For the components, I would with no doubt in my mind skip over the polks and infinity's and go with these...
    http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_108&products_id=547

    Elemental Design is one of my fav brands because they actually understand what quality trully is.. Yes they are a bit expensive but its worth every cent. You are now at $200 bucks on just components minus tax...

    Now lets direct our attention to the 6X9's, I think the Alpine Type R's are the way to go... They are not overly expensive but hit hard, loud, crisp...

    http://www.google.com/products/cata...dfeCTZiQGvKH0QGOwPzJCA&sqi=2&ved=0CDMQ8wIwAg#

    I think I can beat all of those prices but I would have to get back to you on that... Those Alpines and Ed components put you at $300 exactly minus tax but I promise you it will sound incredible... No need for a sub, replace the speakers and hear them out... If you still crave bass, get a sub but I doubt you will..... Let me know if you have any questions man... :D

    -Salvy
     
  10. Salvy

    Salvy Member

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    Well you have quite a few problems. The Good, Headunit... You can work with it.. The bad, The amp. That is a 4 channel amp powering a subwoofer, and who knows what else. A speaker amp will never provide enough power to the subwoofer to trully make it hit even if it is just a 10 inch small subwoofer. Wich leads me to the next bad, 10 inch subwoofer is good to add bass but not actually bang hard. The speakers are ok.

    Ima ask you the same question, what do you want from your sound system? More bass, in general louder and balanced? and what is your budget?.... Then we can see what we can do with what you already have and add some juice to it... Let me know bro....

    -Salvy
     
  11. vinsensual

    vinsensual Member

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    He didn't say that he wanted to bang hard. And most 4 channel amps have a tri-mode which should adequately supply a 10. I run a 10" IDQ on 180w and its plenty loud. It's about the box, aiming, and cabin space.
     
  12. Salvy

    Salvy Member

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    Its an assumption that he wants more power since he does state that the speakers and subwoofer overall dont feel powerful. "tri-mode" does not help when an amp is not able to provide sufficient power to the subwoofer.

    These are the specifics for his amp.
    4-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier
    RMS Power Rating:
    4 ohms: 40 watts x 4 chan.
    2 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan.
    Bridged, 4 ohms: 130 watts x 2 chan
    .
    Max power output: 125 watts x 4 chan.

    Lets start with the class, most 4 channel amps do have tri mode but they are also a/b class amps.... This means that the amp was never designed to trully power a subwoofer/subwoofers. Yes it can power a single subwoofer, and in some cases they will sound okay but in the end this is not what the amp is for. Its for speakers.
    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fWcMIOqH1fR/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_faq.html#16
    ^^
    Read that, it gives tons of info on classes and what an amp with tri mode feature really is.

    Now there are high end 4 channel amps that will run every speakers in your car plus a subwoofer or two but these are extremely expensive high end amps. I rather have a dedicated power source to my speakers/ subwoofers instead of going thru a high pass filter built into the amp.

    Now lets look at his power, lets forget his speakers and go straight for the money..
    Bridged, 4 ohms: 130 watts x 2 chan

    This is a 300 watt JL subwoofer, lets assume his rms wich is not stated is 150 watts... And lets assume his amp actually delivers 130 watts rms... Yup, something is not right? right?.....
    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/8551.pdf
    The manual to his subwoofer^^^

    I dont know what you got in your car, you may have a high end amp or not. You are happy with your bass/sound and he is not. He has alot of things working against him at this point but first thing is first, what he desires from his sound...
     
  13. paymon

    paymon Member

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    The problem is the sub needs more power. Whether I need to replace the sub itself or change the power going to it, I don't know.

    The speakers are okay, but I feel they also need more power. Their clarity is good though. My question is do I replace my rear speakers? I am running the factory rears. Do most people get 4 new speakers in a coupe?

    The amp is running 2x channels bridged to the sub, and each of the other channels is going to one speaker. Any suggestions?
     
  14. Salvy

    Salvy Member

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    What kind of coupe is it? and what are the speakers sizes?..... What you need to do is hook up that amp to all your 4 speakes straight up and set the amp to full mode. Then you need a monoblock amp that will power rightfully power that subwoofer... Not sure how much bass you are looking to get... Get a good amp that has good power and is versatile in ohm stability, just in case later on you want to add another sub or go with bigger subwoofers that will allow for a 1 ohm stable or 2 ohm stable set up.... :D
     

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