That's just too damn much work .... I have a chainsaw mill & a 28 inch saw for when I come across stuff like that. Nothing against making things the old way, I do a lot of joinery and hand work .... but damn if I'm not going to take advantage of modern machinery if its available. Thinking about getting a dovetail jig so I don't have to do those by hand anymore.
Picked up some rough cut walnut, cherry, and maple. Also signed up for a woodworking 101 class here in Austin. Only $135 for a 7hr class! Materials included.
Woodcraft Austin They have a bunch of different classes. Im doing the general basics. But they have specific classes for different types of builds or tools, eg using hand tools, a lathe, cabinetry, tabletops, fine furniture, etc.
Thanks! He's an hour or so away from the ranches and my stuff that he can play around with, but getting him into a beginner type class sounds great.
there was some discussion earlier in this thread about the Wahuda bench top jointers . . . Cutech now has a 12" bench top jointer and I'm wondering if anyone has opinions on the Cutech units. May finally pull the trigger on this one, reviews seem to be pretty good https://cutechtools.us/products/12-...htop-jointer-cast-iron-tables-cutech-401120hi
I have no experience with a jointer, but most people say the max length of board is double the table length. The extensions don't really count, so the estimate is maybe 68" of board length you can joint well. Almost 6' is still pretty good. Older generations of these machines also had trouble keeping the fence straight so getting a square face and edge was difficult. Ymmv with how much you can tune it. For the width, price, and smaller footprint if you lack floor space, not a bad deal if it's accurate. Or just YOLO it and get a combo 16" planer/jointer for 10x the price.
It looks very similar to the Wahuda, other than being wider, theirs is a 10 inch, not a 12. If it's the same platform as the Wahuda, it's money well spent - as long as you aren't trying to joint 10 or 12 footers. The fence on these is extruded aluminum, not cast iron .... it makes for a light & more affordable machine but isn't great for large pieces. The fence will flex under the strain of large pieces. That doesn't mean you can't joint them, just that you have to be extra careful to keep the piece flush to the fence and then the flex really doesn't matter. I don't often joint long boards but I do joint boards that are pushing the limits of the width of my machine and it holds up quite well, maybe a little under powered but what do you expect in this price range?? My next one will be a Laguna 12 inch floor model JX|12 ShearTec: II Jointer | Classic Machinery | Laguna Tools but that's after I move to a larger shop some time in the hopefully not too distant future.
yep, I think the most I've ever needed has been 6 to 7 feet or so Cutech actually sells a cast-iron fence for these, they're out of stock at the moment, but seems like they've improved the fence situation. These units now come with a couple of adjustable stiffening brackets that mount to the rear of the aluminum fence on both sides, and I watched a couple of videos where it looks like it really does make it a lot more rigid. envious on the Laguna! but I'm just a hobbyist, plus I've got a couple of friends nearby with industrial planers if I ever needed to work on something particularly big or challenging I appreciate the thoughts on the Cutech, will likely make that purchase
I did end up ordering it and have it set up, tested it and everything looks good. The cutterhead guard broke off during shipping (damn pot metal), but I emailed them and they shipped it same day, should be here Monday or Tuesday. Working on a new bench with a hard maple top so will start putting it through its paces soon.
I wasn’t feeling well yesterday and missed my woodworking 101 class. Let us know how that jointer works out. I am holding off on buying one and instead I’m going to buy a better table saw with a cast iron top and good fence. Did you y’all hear about the consumer protection agency (forget actual agency name) proposed rule to require injury prevention mechanisms in all commercial table saws? SawStop is one of only a few techs and they’ve successfully sued to keep others off the market for patent infringement — notably Bosch. Table saws are expected to go up at minimum 200-400 for job site/compact saws and thousand+ for cabinet. Sawstop did just announce they will release the patent to the public if/when rule is implemented. I’m trying to decide if I should buy a table saw now or wait. All the used cast iron tops I find don’t have riving knives or ability to add. I’m too chicken **** for that.
I bought a Sawstop because it was cheap insurance for a permanent injury. If a table saw accident happens, the ER bill and loss of finger is more expensive.
Of course. It’s still hard to swallow a 1500 machine when you’re just getting into the hobby though. And most people don’t have injuries with their saws. But yes. One finger loss is not worth 1500 dollars. I’d spend 100k if I knew I was going to avoid a sure finger loss. For now I’m just focusing on not making any stupid cuts, paying extreme attention to detail, running through the motions before turning on saw, using good push blocks and jigs, etc. that said, I’m still considering getting the SS.
I'd already been using a Ridgid R4512 for a year that I found used. I figured I'd use it often (haven't in past couple years) and that it was a saw I could use for decades. If I dropped the hobby, the resale value is still pretty good on a Sawstop. And even more reason for it is I was never taught formally. YouTube University is how I learn. Everybody is always considering budget levels, but it's hard to put a price on safety. I'd spend a lot more on a safer router and jointer if they came out with similar safety mechanisms. Definitely practice good safety measures all the time. Never be complacent around dangerous power tools. But accidents are never planned. I try to think ahead for what's the failsafe to the failsafe.
Nice Dewalt Miter Saw, I have a Milwaukee but sort of hate it.... Been wanting a Dewalt for a while now...
that was a good purchase. I have an old Hitachi that only weighs about 25 pounds, straight chop saw that's still good for lugging around the yard and cutting 2x4s, this one stays set up in the shop. here's the beginnings of the bench, still trying to decide which boards to use for the top
Those sawstop saws are vastly overrated. You can't cut green / wet wood (damp) without triggering the mechanism which costs ~$80-$100 to replace. Use pushblocks, feather boards, sleds and common sense and it's a totally unnecessary feature. I guess if you only work with kiln dried wood and have the $$$ to throw at it ....
I wonder at what moisture level it’s triggered. But I also can’t imagine I’d be using very wet wood. I buy at HD and a local lumber mill. Only stuff I’ve bought was fairly dry though I didn’t measure it and I haven’t used it yet. I have to get a new table saw though. I stupidly bought a ryobi just to get something. The fence isn’t terrible but the table is aluminum and only has one miter slot and it’s too wide/loose and only on one side of blade. I’ve seen some older rigids and craftsman’s for about 300 on marketplace but again, no riving knife. Which is fine for the sled cuts but what abt ripping and stuff?
