That's the first I've heard of someone having difficulty shifting 1st to 2nd with the FRS. That's usually a symptom of a heavy dual mass flywheel that results in rev hang. From my experience the BRZ doesn't have much rev hang and was easy and fast to shift into 2nd. From what I've heard the TL70 Toyota gearbox on the FRS/BRZ is one of the best 6 speed manuals currently on the market. The only issue that is easily correctable for me when I drove it was that the bite point on the clutch pedal was too high for my taste. But just think about what you are saying. A 40 grand BMW doesn't handle as well as a 25 grand Toyota. That's how amazing the FRS is. I have to disagree with you about the EVO and STI. Don't equate higher lateral grip numbers to 'better handling'. That has more to do with the purposely gimped the tires that are put on stock FRS's in order for less grip because the engineers wanted more tail happy action than out right grip. If I got something like a FRS or BRZ the first thing I would do is ditch the Michelin Primacy tires and put actual performance summer tires on it. That would immediatly make the car have more grip than EVOs or STIs. EVOs and STIs are nothing more than modded economy boxes. They don't have the low center of gravity and low weight that a dedicated sports car platform like the GT86 is. Everything from the double wishbone suspension to the flat 4 engine that is placed low to the ground just make the car feel more 'go kart' like than something like an EVO or STI. They are two different experiences. I've driven the previous generation STI and when I sit in them, I don't feel like I'm in a sports car. I sit up high as if I'm sitting on top of the car while when I sit in something like a BRZ or S2000, you are sitting in a very aggressive lo seating position. It really helps with the experience. Honestly, I'm considering a used Cayman. It has the nimble go kart feeling of the FRS but with actual power. So it's the best of both worlds. I really wish Honda would make the S2000 again. The AP1 S2000 revved to 9000 RPM! What stock car under 40 grand freaking revs to 9000!?!? That's just insane and ridiculously fun.
I feel like sports cars are also supposed to be quick/fast (at least for the money). I really do appreciate quality handling, low weight to horsepower ratio cars, track/canyon carvers, but my point was, if I was personally spending 30k on a sports car I'd want it to actually be a little fast, w/handling. Maybe I'm just biased, I purchased new a new Camaro SS last year for 30k lol. For the money I do believe it's the fastest new car you can get, hoping I can get the new gen SS 1LE when it comes out which will be lighter, track/handling focused.
I'll say this. If I still lived in Houston, I wouldn't consider the the FRS. Roads are too straight and flat down there to appreciate a car like an FRS. Living in New England, canyon roads are literally a 20 minute drive from my location. I would definitely chose something like the new Camaro if I still lived in Southeast Texas. BTW, the new Camaros look pretty damn amazing. How's the visibility on those things? I heard that's one aspect of the car that's awkwardly annoying.
I have a 2015 model so it's the old body style, but the visibility is supposedly better (but still bad) on the new model. It doesn't bother me personally, I don't ever notice it or get frustrated so it's not a problem, but when I first got it my depth perception was totally off because the window lines are so high.
Car debate aside...I'm actually left wondering how much longer I can drive my Camry in the condition it is in. I've never had a tranny issue before. I was told by the dealer that I have a slow leak in my transmission, the fluid is dirty, and is low. The symptoms are it's just a little jolt when going from first speed to second speed. If I go hard on the acceleration, then I will experience slipping and RPM jumps when going to other speeds. There is also a noise that comes from the tranny when accelerating and decelerating at slower speeds. Aside from that, the car currently is fine. I didn't opt to do a transmission flush/fluid change because I was told this wouldn't fix the problem. I didn't feel like dropping $400 thinking I would just drive it for now and shop for a new car. But, I've been driving it all week and it doesn't feel like it's going to just break down on me. Obviously, I'm taking it easy in how I drive it but, aside from the noise and the minor jolt from first to second speed and vice versa (when decelerating)...it seems okay. I guess I'm looking for any changes in symptoms that would tell me the problem is getting worse. These problems only started appearing a few days ago and I took it in promptly. Obviously, dealers are not where you want to get your tranny work done. They quoted me a repair quote of over $5k. I'm thinking the car is good for a while longer if I do nothing. I'm not sure doing a flush/fluid change would buy me more time or not? I don't really want to break down somewhere on the road but I don't feel like that will happen at the moment. So, I don't feel like I'm in a big hurry here to replace it. Anyone ever have these types of tranny problems before in automatics and, if so, then what was your experience? Eventually, it may not be able to change speeds at all I imagine if the problem worsens. My understanding is it goes into a "limp mode" when that happens. I guess that could happen relatively quickly but it seems more like it is going to be a drawn out degradation.
Did you put in fluid? Flushing won't fix a leak. Buy some fluid and keep it filled up. If the leak is serious you will have mostly new fluid soon. Sounds like it isn't a big deal and the symptoms are of low fluid. Maintain your cars. If you aren't a person who knows how to check fluid levels get a new car.
I have an 06 TL and my transmission gave out recently. I bit the bullet, fixed it and reserved a Tesla Model 3.The car now runs better than it did when I first bought it 70,000 miles ago and should be solid for another 2-3 years while I wait. Even if you're not going for a Tesla, it makes financial sense to fix now and take your time to find and pay for the car you really want later.
Checking fluid on cars without a tranny dipstick is not straightforward. The gist of it is described below in the next two paragraphs (the second paragraph describes how the temperature has to be at a certain temperature...because I had to sit there for a few hours waiting on the temperature of the fluid to reach a certain temp before they could even check(a fluid exchange machine is used to flush/refill). Now, show me a consumer that knows how to check their transmission fluid levels and quality on their own in this situation? And, they can't just add transmission fluid because they don't know how much to add without doing a full flush/refill. You can't just guess here. Well, you can...but then you may do more harm than good. You remove the drain plug and the stand pipe indicates if there's enough transmission fluid. If a little dribbles out there's enough fluid. If nothing comes out the fluid's low. And as mentioned, you need a method to pump the transmission fluid up the stand pipe until fluid runs out. Some manufacturers have a spec (like Toyota) that indicates if the transmission fluid needs servicing. You hook a scanner up and compare the temperature of the fluid relative to the pressure. If it's out of spec, then the fluid is replaced with tranny fluid exchange machine.
No, I'm not hell bent on buying a Tesla like some of you. And, I don't really agree on the financial sense part given the miles and age on the car. Taking my time is not going to land me a different car "that I really want". I'm still buying a car within a certain dollar amount...whether it is now or later. And, while I was looking for input in this thread, obviously I have my own criteria that I apply...as do each of you.
It will puke up the fluid through the seals and then there is a puddle. I'm not saying to change the fluid. I am saying fill it. You had to wait hours because it was too hot. I looked up the spec and it is 104. Let it sit all night, run for a few minutes then check and fill. If they are right that you have a leak then I don't see the problem. Low fluid is almost certainly the reason you have symptoms. Shade tree work isn't difficult.
I'm confused. If it's as easy as that Bandwagoner, then why the f**k is the dealer service rep relaying info from the mechanics telling me they can't add fluid because they don't know how much to add back and it can damage the transmission if they add too much? The only explanation is they are trying to f**k me but the nearest closest f**k I would have aside from a rebuilt tranny to correct the leak is a $400 flush/refill.
How did this thread go from a discussion of sedans to a debate about tiny two-seaters? Btw an Accord V6 has about 275 HP and will race to 60 in apprx 5.5 seconds (the Accord Sport with a manual 0-60 in 6.4).
That's not what I heard... <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ObpcGNCU944" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
My bad. Hangout section doesn't have many car threads so I kinda went off topic. Sorry op. I'll start my own thread next time. The Accord is a solid choice but if you prefer RWD sportiness instead of FWD understeeriness maybe a BMW 228i might be a bit more fun with better handling. It's a coupe but still has usable rear seats. The reason why don't like the CLA that people mentioned eariler is it's a FWD platform. If I'm buying a premium brand like a Merc or BMW I wouldn't waste money on a FWD platform.
Just wanted to drop in and say that I have no problem with CVTs. I mean they feel weak, but if you're just driving a sedan that's plenty. Plus, come on, it's a Honda sedan. If you want to look or feel badass then you're just looking in the wrong place. Might as well save some money upfront and save money at the pump. With that said, I am a cheap mofo, no doubt moreso than most people, so I know others don't think of this the same way I do.
You're right. The CVT is the standard for the Accord, a V6 is an upgrade. I'm saying I wouldn't want to pay extra for the V6 and more in gas for an Accord. I'd (probably*) be fine with the CVT. *All depends on how it feels when I actually drive it, of course.
I doubt the V6 model is CVT since CVT transmissions cannot handle larger amounts of torque. If you get the V6 model, get the 6 speed manual. These new Honda manual transmissions are light and easy to operate in traffic with hardly any stress on the legs.
I'm not saying you SHOULD over fill, I'm saying it won't explode. I'm also not saying your car is fine, I'm saying checking the level isn't rocket science. Buy some WS, check and fill a little at a time until you get a new car or get it fixed. Now you are finally talking sense. Moped or alternatively a Honda Grom or the new Kawasaki Z125. I would say to get a real motorcycle though. Something like a CB500x or a Kawasaki Versys. Use the HOV lane, split traffic in local roads, get 60mpg (or 100 with a Grom) pay 300 a year in insurance and 7000 for the thing brand new (or 3000 for the Grom).
