This is all I am saying. Looking at the lights it is obvious your aperture was wide open. If you are going to be using a tripod or concrete block or whatever in the future on a similar shot with a P&S, you will get better results with it at f8 or so. Instead of perfect balls you will get sunstars like in the pic I linked. PLUS more of it will be in focus, which is what you want for a landscape. Stopping it down won't matter because you are already dealing with a few seconds exposure. Clear?
Sorry, I wrote the first reply then saw your were confused also so I wrote another with more detail. also I don't think your pic had any "exposure issues" i just wanted to show an alternative way to do a similar shot since i had done a shot that was SO CLOSE in subject. I used a big concrete sign though on Fannin
yep, gotcha. i was just focused on your light trails and didn't realize you were commenting on the bokeh and sun-spots.
Here are more of mine. Again, mostly Colorado, though some Utah thrown in... Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler Spoiler
Took this one at the last Summerfest as Weezer was wrapping up their set. This was in London early last year.
Can he avoid that though? The sky is one little bright strip down the middle and everything under the bridge is considerably darker. If he meters more on the sky, then everything under the bridge will get even darker. While I'm on the subject, how much better is the meter on high end cameras like the 5D or 1D compared to something like the 50D or the T3.
The dynamic range not gonna be any better. T3 is a poor camera though. if you really don't want the sky to be blown out you use the bracketed exposure function and put them together is PP. Or you use film.
