For the price, you aren't going to find any better deals than toyota at the moment. You'll get more car than you would if you went with honda for example, and that is because toyota is attempting to rehabilitate their image. Just one of the perks with a toyota is that they have base models in the 15k range with dohc. The honda civic base model is a sohc. But then again honda is the most reliable car you can buy. I'd rather have a honda but if you want a cheaper financing rate and are willing to gamble on toyota you really can't go wrong.
Why do you want leather seats? They make your clothes slip, they retain heat and they are generally less comfortable and certainly more expense than cloth. Cloth seats are the way to go, jmho.
I actually prefer leather myself they feel more comfortable and easier for me to maintain. So it looks like I have found the car I wanted and at the price I wanted so I will be going into the dealership tomorrow night to get the car (provided it hasnt sold by then) is there anything I should watch out for I've already confirmed twice with the Internet Sales Manager on the sale price, the tax and fees and the final out the door price as well. I dont expect anything necessarily to be added on last minute -- this dealer's fees were about 40 dollars more than another dealers but about the same with all the others (basically that one dealer was 40 dollars less but it was also the dealership furthest away from me near San Diego) I havent told them that I qualify for one of their rebates since I didnt want that figured into my pricing I wanted the price before any rebates. One dealer gave me the same price as the dealership I will be going to but his price was after the rebate and any rebates are always taken off after tax. Anything else I should know before finally going in? I most likely will finance through them I have an excellent credit score but never taken any sort of loans before so my dad agreed to cosign so I get the best APR possible (they are offering 1.9-2.9 on the car) I am just waiting for an approval from my CU about a loan I applied for through them so whichever of the two has a better APR I will go with.
Ok so Audi West have told me they can give me a new Q3 for $34,000 via email. What do I go back to them with? I've told them my number is $31,000 and they said they definitely can't meet it (I know that too) - just trying to get as much off as possible. They're telling me sticker price is close to 40k, take the deal? haha. It's a 2016 Premium Plus
I bought a Rav4 in May through email, essentially. Told the guy what I wanted, got the price down to truecar pricing, told him to send me an app for 0% financing, filled it out, once I was accepted, I called him and told him I'd be there in 30 minutes have it ready. It took 15 minutes door to door. I'll never buy a car a different way again. Some dealers didn't want to play ball through email, as a negotiating tool, I think. Those were the guys that I quit contacting. I made an easy purchase and the salesman made an easy payday. I think he was more appreciative than I was.
I usually just tell them(within reason) if I'm financing, "hey this is how much I'd like to pay each month on x amount of months after x amount of initial downpayment". They usually do the whole well that math doesn't add up to the sticker price of the car but eventually you'll come close to your *reasonable* asking amount if you just stick to your guns. 60% of the time it works every time.
Strap in. My wife was in an accident on July 4th, and we're still probably a week away from everything being totally settled. By the time we actually roll off the lot with a new car, it will probably have been six weeks since the accident. Of course, I admit that our situation was exacerbated by the fact that it was a multi-car accident where the at-fault driver fought tooth and nail to not be liable for anything. Immediately got a lawyer involved and everything. That probably tacked on an extra week or so.
1. You need to understand the concepts of "invoice" price and "hold back". The manufacturers actually pay a percentage (usually of invoice) to the dealers to move a car. That is why when dealerships sell you a car at "invoice" they are still making money. Knowing that they get a hold back means you really know what they are making on a car. 2. Try to have good financing before you walk in. Many times credit unions knock the socks off of manufacturers or banks' interest rates if you have one available. 3. Rebates or dealer incentives are from the Manufacturer directly, not the dealership. Don't let them keep you rebate or incentive. Most dealers should be happy to sell you a car around invoice plus knock off the rebates. If they tell you that they can't, walk out. That's money between you and the manufacturer and the dealer is going to try to take a piece of it. Also, there are often rebates that you may not know about (farmer credit, military service, etc.) Make sure you ask and get all applicable rebates from the manufacturer. Dealerships will often not tell you that the rebates stack and try to keep them for themselves. 4. Be prepared to NOT trade in your car unless you really have to. Get a KBB instant cash offer (be very honest in the detailed assessment.) This is a good starting point and often the dealership will match it if its decent. However, remember that sales tax is calculated in the POST trade in price reduction, so if they are within a couple hundred bucks, its usually a wash. 5. Always negotiate the out the door sales price, then trade in. Don't let them try to confuse you with monthly payment numbers, or negotiate well on the sales price and nail you on your trade in. Think of them as separate transactions. 6. Finally, ask about every item on the sales order. There are often "vehicle ready fees" that are just cash to wash your car and put gas in it. The salesman will often tell you its part of his commission. Its not, don't pay it. There are often document fees of anywhere from $100 to $300. These are NOT required fees, they are admin fees the dealer is passing to you. Strangely, these are often non-negotiable and even Edmunds will tell you its often not worth fighting over unless there are duplicate doc fees. Sometimes you can get them to knock it off, but it is rare. Don't fall for VIN etching fees, stain treatment fees, etc. Question every line, they'll often try to mix their fees in with the actual Tax, Title, and License fees. 7. Many dealerships require you to sign an arbitration agreement waiving your right to sue. Ask about this up front. If you are not comfortable with this, don't deal with that dealership. More and more dealerships are doing this and it is often non-negotiable. 8. If you have financing already, or are paying cash, they are NOT required to run your credit. They often will still try and outright lie to you that it is a Homeland Security requirement. This is a lie and if you don't want them to run your credit, leave. 9. If you want to save headaches, often you can get supplier pricing through employers etc. Add in your rebates and that is usually your price. Supplier pricing is usually invoice or 1% below invoice. You could theoretically negotiate a better deal, but often only a couple hundred bucks more, and its sometimes not worth the trouble. 10. Supply and demand still matters. If its a new, hot model, less likely to negotiate down. Makes things like supplier pricing more valuable.
5. Always negotiate the out the door sales price. This. It was an issue on the last car I bought. I got one dealership competing another. The "lowest" price turned out be a lie. That had non-negotiable add-ons, FTW. I can not stress this enough if you plan to buy a car via email. Get a disposable email before you start. trust me on this
I do not have direct experience with this but ... There are car buying services like Costco's. I also recently noticed that my yearly AAA membership also provides such of a service. AFAIK I may have access to others through credit cards, professional associations, etc.
No doubt about it. They will always try to steer you to what do you want to pay monthly and that's where they get you. When I negotiated I told them, I don't care about monthly payments right now, I just want to negotiate the final price. You can worry about the financing later if you already have a pre-approval in place.
I looked into it, the Costco price matches the supplier price for most manufacturers, so if you don't get that through your employer, its pretty good.
I went through Costco for my wife's car recently, and I couldn't have been happier. The least stressful car-buying experience I've ever had.
